Dog Behavior

Why Does My Pet Eat Grass?
By Deena Caruso

Are you concerned when your dog or cat eats grass, then throws up afterwards? You’ll probably feel relieved to know that pets eat grass because their bodies need it.

Dogs and cats have been eating grass for a long time. In fact, grass is so popular among dogs that one species, dog grass, is named after them. Dog grass is also known as couch grass and quackweed, and it grows in all but the southern-most states.

You can think of grass as an herbal medicine. It acts as an internal cleanser, expelling excess mucus, bile, and other impurities. It also cleanses the bowels and expels worms. Cereal grasses contain enzymes, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. Grass also contains chlorophyll, which was used for relieving pain, treating infections, ulcers, skin diseases, and anemia prior to the use of antibiotics.

Some pet owners grow grass specifically to give to their pets to prevent or treat diarrhea, anemia, cataracts, fleas, tumors excessive shedding, and other pet health problems. Pets that are fed grass on a regular basis are less likely to crave outdoor grass. So, if you don’t feel comfortable with your pet eating the grass in your lawn, you may want to grow your own grass for them to eat.

Try growing rye or barley sprouts. These sprouts are preferred over wheat grass because some animals are sensitive to wheat.

Follow these instructions to grow rye or barley grass. Soak one cup organically grown grain in one quart water for 8 to 10 hours. Then drain the container and leave it on its side in a warm place, away from direct sunlight. A tiny white rootlet will sprout from each grain within 24 to 48 hours. Caution: If you don’t see these rootlets, your grain isn’t viable and should be thrown away.

Next, spread the sprouting grain on one inch of moist potting soil or top soil in a plastic garden tray. For drainage create a one inch channel around the soil.

For two days, cover the tray. Then uncover it, and water thoroughly. Place the tray in direct sunlight or under grow lights. Keep the soil moist by watering when needed.

When the grass is 6-8” tall, cut it with scissors or a sharp knife. Place grasses in a ziploc bag, along with a damp paper towel. Be sure to expel air from the bag before sealing. Then store the grass in the refrigerator.

When feeding the grass to your pet, cut or mince it into tiny pieces, or place a small amount in a blender or food processor with other foods. To be sure your cat or dog will accept the grass, begin feeding just a fraction of a teaspoon. Increase the amount gradually to approximately one tablespoon per 50 lbs. of body weight.

Once your pet is given the amount of grass his body needs, you probably won’t be seeing him eating the grass in your lawn. And you can feel relieved knowing that you’re feeding him something that he craves and that his body needs.

About the author : Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets.

Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD)

What is Canine Hip Dysplasia?

By Ty Magnum

Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD) is a congenital disease that mainly affects large breed dogs. The word "dysplasia" means improper growth. Hip dysplasia can be described as a faulty or abnormal development of the hip. In CHD, the hip becomes loose and wobbly, eventually leading to a form of arthritis which is commonly referred to Degenerative Joint Disease (DJD). The degree of lameness that occurs is usually dependent upon the extent of arthritic changes in the hip joint. So too do environmental conditions such as amount of physical exercise, and weight gain contribute to the disease, and bring out symptoms.

What Are the Symptoms of Canine Hip Dysplasia?

The symptoms of CHD depend on the severity of the dysplasia. Another factor is the whether or not degenerative joint disease (DJD) is present. Dogs less than 1 year old have a tendency to have periods of acute bilateral (or unilateral) lameness in their rear legs. Older dogs with CHD exhibit rear limb lameness with an obvious weight displacement to the forelimb (front paws). Furthermore, the signs of lameness become more obvious with exercise or after a minor trauma. Again depending on the degree of joint destruction, visible signs vary.

Typical signs are

- Generally less active.

- Problem with stairs.

- Less jumping

- Trouble rising, or laying down.

- When running will exhibit a A Bunny hopping @ gait

- Painful reaction to the extension of the rear legs.

- A faint popping sound coming from the hip.

Are All Dogs at Risk Canine Hip dysplasia?

CHD can occur in any dog. However, large breed dogs are at a higher risk. The Orthopedic Foundation of Animals (OFA) believes that some of the breeds at highest risk are:

Bulldog

Pug

Otterhund

Clumber Spaniel

Neapolitan Mastiff

St. Bernard

Boykin Spaniel

Sussex Spaniel

American Bulldog

Newfoundland

American Staffordshire Terrier

Bloodhound

Bullmastiff

Chesapeake Bay Retriever

Golden Retriever

Gordon Setter

Rottweiler

Chow Chow

Old English Sheepdog

Kuvasz

Norweigan Elkhound

Giant Schnauzer

German Shepherd

Bernese Mountain Dog

English Setter

Black and Tan Coonhound

Shih Tzu

Staffordshire Terrier

Welsh Corgi

Beagle

Briard

Brittany

Bouvier des flandres

Welsh Springer Spaniel

Curly Coated Retriever

Polish Lowland Sheepdog

Portugese Water Dog

English Springer Spaniel

Pudel Pointer

Irish Water Spaniel

How is Canine Hip Dysplasia Diagnosed?

Initial assessment involves taking a history of the dog, and examining obvious clinical signs. The only real way to see if a dog is suffering from CHD is through X Rays. If found early enough in pups, surgery can correct the problem.

What Is the Treatment of Canine Hip Dysplasia?

Treatment for CHD can be as mild as recommending rest, or as severe as surgery, depending on the severity of the dysplasia, amount of DJD, the age of the dog, the size of the dog, and many other factors, treatment will vary.

Possible Conservative Treatment

- Weight monitoring

- Moderate exercise

- Pain relief medication

- Joint and health supplements

Possible Surgical Treatment

Currently there are three main surgical procedures used in for the treatment of CHD.

Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO)

In this procedure, three separate bone cuts are made in order to free the acetabulum component (the socket or cup) of the hip joint from the rest of the pelvis. The acetabulum is then rotated to provide better coverage. A bone plate is secured to maintain this new position and allow the bone cuts to mend. The procedure is for large breed dogs, no older than 10 months of age. Candidates for this surgery must only have mild CHD and no arthritis present.

Femoral Head Ostectomy (FHO)

In this procedure, the head of the femur is removed. The residual portion of the femur forms a “false" joint with muscle, tendons and ligaments. Even though the false joint is not as superior as the original, most dogs experience a great reduction in pain. This particular surgery is far more effect in smaller dogs, with most experiencing an almost normal function of the hip.

Total hip replacement (THR)

In this procedure the head and neck of the femur are both replaced with either stainless steel or titanium implants. This surgery is used on young dogs who have fully matured developed physically. THR is also used in older dogs who weigh a minimum 40lbs. If done correctly, the procedure can be very successful; however it is only done by a select few, and is very expensive.

Is There Any Way to Prevent Canine Dysplasia?

CHD is a combination of genetics and environmental factors. Responsible breeders are working on reducing the chances of CHD by breeding dogs that are less likely to produce pups that will have the disease, by better sceening methods.

Environmental factors do NOT cause CHD. Instead, they bring out the symptoms in a dog that already has the disease. Responsible owners can help dogs with CHD by addressing these environmental variables. By closely monitoring a dog’s diet, for example, owners can insure that a pup will not grow too fast, or become over weight. Here is a list of variables that can be controlled in order to nurture a dog with CHD.

- Limit rough play, jumping, climbing stairs or slick floors.

- Monitor food intake.

- Calcium supplementation (may increase the bone remodeling).

- Forced running for any distance, especially on tarmac, asphalt or other hard surfaces

- Have your dog certified by The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA)

Ths website only provides BASIC information about Canine Hip Dysplasia. your veterinarian is always your best source of health information. Consult your veterinarian for more information about CHD and its prevention.

DOG TRAINING TIPS

How To Deal With Your Dog's Teething Problem

There is a part of every puppy's life that every dog owner would gladly live without - that maddening, frustrating, must-chew-everything-that-isn't-stapled-to-the-ceiling, teething age.

At about 4 months old, our puppy will lose its first set of teeth and the adult teeth will begin to grow from the gums. The teething process continues on and off for several months and this is often a painful and uncomfortable process for our puppy. We will notice that our puppy is teething from his increased chewing and biting on everything imaginable that is within reach.

Although sometimes tiresome, teething is a stage all puppies must go through and, happily, it will pass fairly soon. Relieving our puppy's pain and protecting our possessions from the sharp little teeth will be our top priorities!

What we can do:

1. Crate Training

The best way to prevent destructive chewing during our puppy's teething stage is to crate train our puppy. In addition, this will keep him away from the deadly things he'd love to chew to pieces when we aren't looking, like electrical cords of appliances that are still plugged in.

Make sure we provide a crate that is big enough for our puppy to turn around in. It is also important that we make the crate a safe and happy place for our dog by providing him with stimulating toys while he is in the crate.

2. Chew Toys

Chew toys and other gnaw-ables are going to be very useful in helping our puppy during his teething stage of his life. Although it is always tempting to let our puppy to chew on an old pair of socks or old leather shoe, this action is tantamount to telling our puppy that ALL shoes and socks are available to him for chewing!

Frozen rubber teething rings will help ease the pain of cutting teeth when our puppy has to be crated for safe keeping while you are either busy or out.

In addition, always remember to:

a. Positively reinforce chewing on things he is allowed to with praise and petting, and try to identify each item with "Is that your stick? Good boy!"; and

b. Negatively reinforce his chewing on inappropriate items by removing the item and saying "No, that is mine." and exchanging it with a proper chew toy with "Here is your ball, good boy!"

3. No Chew Toys, try the following two tips:

Buy a few cheap wash clothes and soak them thoroughly with water. Then put the wash clothes in the freezer. When fully frozen, give it to the teething puppy to chew.

Mix chicken or beef broth with 1 � cup of water. Pour them into ice cube trays to made broth ice cubes. They are tasty treats on hot days.

Finally, teething puppies will put their mouths on us and it is up to us to teach them at an early age that this is not acceptable. Just as mentioned above, every time they exhibit mouthing behavior, we must redirect them to an acceptable chew toy (or frozen clothes or broth).

Another important factor in bite inhibition and limiting mouthing behavior is proper socialization. It is very important in this stage to take our dog to a puppy class or puppy play group. When allowed to play with other pups, our dog will learn what is acceptable play behavior. The other dogs will help him to learn that biting is not appropriate. Also socialising our dog to many different kinds of people and situations will help him not to be afraid of new things and will significantly lower the potential for biting.

And remember to praise your dog abundantly when he does the right thing!

You Can Do It!

Kum Chee
A Happy Dog Lover and Owner

DOG CARE

Removing Pet Odors And Stains

To successfully train your pet to avoid those 'scent marked' areas of his urination and/or defecation:

1. Find all soiled areas using your nose and eyes. A black-light bulb will usually show even old urine stains. Turn out all lights in the room; use the black-light to identify soiled areas and lightly outline the areas with chalk.
2. Clean the soiled areas appropriately to remove the odors (see below).
3. Make the areas unattractive and/or unavailable (see below).
4. Make his potty area attractive.
5. Train your pet to use the appropriate place to eliminate by using positive reinforcement (eg praise, treats and play times immediately after he has eliminated).

These steps work as a team for your effort to be successful. For example, if you fail to completely clean the area (including removing the odor), your pet will be able to smell his personal scent and he'll continue to return to the 'scent marked' area for his urination and/or defecation. Bear in mind that even if you can't smell traces of his urine, your pet can. Hence your most important chore is to completely remove (neutralize) that odor.

Do Not Use these methods to remove odor:

• Steam Cleaners ' Do not use steam cleaners to clean urine odors from carpet or upholstery as the heat will permanently set the odor and stain by bonding the protein into any man-made fibers.
• Cleaning Chemicals (especially those with strong odors such as ammonia or vinegar) ' From your pet's perspective, these don't effectively eliminate or cover the urine odor. It may actually encourage your pet's inclination to reinforce the urine scent mark in that area.

To Clean Washable Items:

• Machine-wash as usual, adding a one pound box of baking soda to your regular detergent. If possible, air-dry the items.
• If you can still see the stain or smell the urine, machine-wash the item again and add an enzymatic cleaner. Be sure to follow the directions for using the cleaner carefully.
• During the re-training period, a good way to discourage your pet from using the bedding is to cover the bed with a vinyl, flannel-backed tablecloth. They're machine washable, inexpensive and unattractive to your pet.

To Clean Carpeted Ares and Upholstery:

• Soak up as much of the urine as possible with a combination of newspaper and paper towels. The more fresh urine you can remove before it dries, especially from carpet, the simpler it will be to remove the odor. Place a thick layer of paper towels on the wet spot and cover that with a thick layer of newspaper. Stand on this padding for about a minute. Remove the padding and repeat the process until the area is barely damp.
• If possible, take the fresh, urine-soaked paper towel to your dog's potty area and let him see you doing it. Don't act angry when you do this but try to project a 'happy' attitude to him. This will help to remind him that eliminating isn't a 'bad' behavior as long as it's done in the right place.
• Rinse the 'accident zone' thoroughly with clean, cool water. After rinsing, remove as much of the water as possible by blotting or by using a 'wet-vac', 'shop-vac' or 'extractor'.
• If you've previously used cleaners or chemicals of any kind on the area, then neutralizing cleaners won't be effective until you've rinsed every trace of the old cleaner from the carpet. Even if you haven't used chemicals recently, any trace of a non-protein-based substance will weaken the effect of the enzymatic cleaner. The cleaner will use up its 'energy' on the old cleaners instead of on the protein stains you want removed.
• To remove all traces of old chemicals and clean old or heavy stains in carpeting, consider using or renting an extractor or wet-vac. This machine operates much like a vacuum cleaner and is efficient and economical. Extracting/wet-vac machines do the best job of forcing clean water through your carpet and then forcing the dirty water back out again. When using these machines or cleaners, be sure to follow instructions carefully. Don't use any chemicals with these machines ' they work more effectively with plain water.
• Once the area is totally clean, you should use a high-quality pet odor neutralizer available at pet supply stores. Test the affected surface for staining first.
• If the areas still looks stained after it's completely dry from extracting and neutralizing, try any good carpet stain remover.
• If urine has soaked down into the padding underneath your carpet, your job will be more difficult as you may need to remove and replace that portion of the carpet and padding.

To Clean Floors and Walls:

• If the wood on your furniture, walls, baseboard or floor is discolored, it means that the varnish or paint has been affected by the acid in the urine.
• You will need to remove and replace the layer of varnish or paint.
• Try to use washable enamel paints and some washable wallpapers as these materials respond more favorably to enzymatic cleaners

- extracted from Dumb Friends League (SCTR_R99)

Kum Chee
A Happy Dog Lover and Owner

DOG CARE/GROOMING TIPS

Territorial Marking Behaviour in Dogs

Dogs are territorial animals, ie. they ‘stake out a claim’ to a particular space, area or object, to other people and animals by marking it with a variety of methods and intensity. For example, a dog may bark to drive away what he perceives as intruders to his territory; or a cat may mark a valued object by rubbing it with her face.

Some dogs may go to the extreme of urinating to mark a particular area as their own. Such behaviour should not be mistaken as housesoiling; rather it is a territorial behaviour. To solve the problem, we have to address the underlying reason for your dog’s need to mark his territory in this way.

Difference Between House-soiling And Urine-Marking

Your dog is urine-marking his territory when:

· The problem is mainly urination as dogs seldom mark with faeces

· The amount of urine is small and is found mainly on vertical surfaces although dogs do sometimes mark on horizontal surfaces.

· Leg-lifting and spraying are dominant versions of urine-marking.

· If your dog is not spayed or neutered as your dog is more likely to urine-mark compared to another dog that is spayed or neutered.

· Your dog urinates on new objects in the environment (eg a shopping bag, a visitor’s handbag), or objects that have unfamiliar smells, or objects that have another animal’s scent.

· Your dog has conflicts with other animals in your home. When there’s instability in the pack hierarchy, a dog may feel the need to establish his dominance by urine-marking his territory.

· Your dog has contact with other animals outside your home, eg if your dog sees another dog through a door or window, he may feel a need to mark his territory.

· Your dog marks frequently on neighbourhood walks.

What You Can Do:

· Spay or neuter your dog as soon as possible as it may stop your dog’s urine-marking. However, if he has been urine-marking for a long period of time, it may be difficult to break his pattern of behaviour

· Resolve conflicts between animals in your home.

· Restrict your dog’s access to doors and windows through which he can observe animals outside. If this is not possible, discourage the presence of such animals near your home.

· Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Don’t use strong smelling cleaners as these may cause your dog to ‘over-mark’ the spot.

· Make previously soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive.

· If making soiled areas inaccessible or unattractive isn’t possible, try to change the significance of those areas, eg feed, treat and play with your dog in the areas he is inclined to mark. A dog is less inclined to urine-mark areas that he feeds and plays at.

· Keep objects likely to cause marking out of reach, such as guest’s belongings, new purchases, etc.

· If your dog is marking in response to a new resident in your home (eg a new roommate, etc), have the new resident make friends with your dog by feeding, grooming and playing with your dog. Make sure good things happen to your dog when the new resident is around.

· Watch your dog at all times when he is indoors for signs of his urinating. When he begins to urinate, interrupt him with a loud noise and take him outside. Praise him and give him a treat if he urinates outside. If you are unable to watch your dog, put him in a crate where he has never marked.

What You Should NOT Do:

· Don’t punish your dog after he has urine-marked as punishment administered even a minute after the event is ineffective as he won’t understand why he is being punished.

Dog Aren't People

Remember dogs don’t urinate or defecate out of spite or jealousy.

If he urinates on your baby’s diaper bag, it’s not because he is jealous of, or dislikes your baby. It’s the unfamiliar scents and sounds of a new baby in the house that is causing him to reaffirm his claim on his territory.

Dominance or Anxiety?

Urine-marking is usually associated with dominance behaviour. While this is often the case, some dogs may mark when they feel anxious or upset.

For example, a new baby in the house brings new sounds, smells and people, as well as changes in routine. Your dog probably isn’t getting as much attention as he was used to getting, which cause him to feel anxious. As a result, he may start to urine-mark.

If your dog is feeling anxious, you may want to consider talking to your veterinarian about medications to reduce his anxiety while you work on behaviour modification.

- extracted from Dumb Friends League (TMBI_R00)

Kum Chee
A Happy Dog Lover and Owner